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Luxury craftsmanship stands at a critical crossroads as the global personal luxury goods market has lost approximately 50 million consumers in 2024. Despite this downturn, true artisanal work continues to command value — a stark example being the handmade textile creations that required 320 artisans and over 200,000 hours to complete. The contrast is particularly evident in India, where textiles represent the second-highest employment sector in the country, with hand embroidery forming a specialized subsector. Indian luxury craftsmanship remains internationally recognized, with embroidered and crochet exports valued at $463 million in 2020–2021, and France ranking high among destination markets. Nevertheless, this appreciation for craftsmanship seems at odds with broader industry trends. When Karl Lagerfeld collaborated with H&M in 2004, it signaled luxury’s paradoxical ambition to reach mass markets, fundamentally altering the definition of high-end fashion. Consequently, as major luxury conglomerates like Kering report significant drops in operating income, the question emerges: has luxury without craftsmanship simply become expensive fast fashion? This article examines the evolution of luxury, the continued importance of artisanal skills, and the tangible cost of prioritizing brand over craft.
The Rise of Fast Luxury: What Changed in High-End Fashion
The luxury fashion landscape underwent a dramatic transformation at the turn of the millennium. Once defined by exclusivity and craftsmanship, high-end fashion began adopting the operational logic of fast fashion brands, fundamentally altering its identity and value proposition. This evolution began approximately two decades ago when it became evident that style leadership was shifting. Fast fashion labels like H&M and Zara, once dismissed as mere copycats of runway designs, had become market forces too significant to ignore. With their “cheap and chic” products, direct-to-consumer sales strategy, and flexible supply chains, these brands captured market share that traditional ready-to-wear labels could only dream about. Following Karl Lagerfeld’s groundbreaking H&M partnership in 2004, hundreds of similar “high-low” collaborations emerged. Luxury brands, recognizing the limitations of producing just two collections annually, began adopting fast fashion’s approach to seasons. Today, most international fashion houses rely on monthly product drops reminiscent of fast fashion brands, backed by social media campaigns that allow greater flexibility and responsiveness to consumer demand. Moreover, the principles of design itself have changed. While designer fashion traditionally emphasized innovation and originality, collections now often begin with lists of top-selling products. This “Stan Smith Syndrome” has led renowned brands like Dior, Prada, and Valentino to flood their collections with nearly identical versions of market hits. The digital transformation has presented further challenges. Although 80% of luxury sales still happen in stores, 90% of luxury consumers begin their journey online [1]. Unfortunately, many luxury brands have squandered this opportunity by mimicking mass-market strategies, prioritizing functionality over feeling.
This approach has had serious consequences. Price increases have accounted for more than 80% of growth in recent years, while volume gains remained moderate [2]. The sector’s rapid expansion has led to overexposure and weakened the industry’s promise of exclusivity, creativity, and craftsmanship. The luxury industry now stands at a critical juncture. While brands may meet short-term sales targets, they risk something far more valuable — the long-term brand equity that has traditionally set luxury fashion apart.
The Forgotten Hands: Why Craftsmanship Still Matters
In an age dominated by mass production, the human touch remains the soul of authentic luxury. Skilled artisans dedicate years to mastering their craft, creating products with character that mass-produced goods simply cannot replicate [3]. This artisanal expertise isn’t merely decorative — it represents a strategic value fundamental to high-end fashion’s identity. Behind many celebrated luxury pieces stands the unacknowledged contribution of Indian craftsmanship. The Indian leather industry ranks as the second-largest producer globally, with annual exports reaching 2 billion USD [4]. India produces 13% of global footwear and supplies 10% of global raw leather materials [4]. Furthermore, India exports most of its hand embroidery to France and Italy, with textile exports projected to grow from USD 44.40 billion to USD 100.00 billion in the next five years [5]. The textile sector provides employment to approximately 45 million people in India, making it the second-largest employment provider after agriculture [5]. Indian embroiderers — known as karigars — are among the world’s finest, yet for decades, global luxury brands have subcontracted their embroidery work to these artisans without proper acknowledgment [5]. Essentially, craftsmanship transcends production — it embodies storytelling. The tangible and intangible aspects of a crafted object carry messages and stories that relate to contemporary lifestyles [6]. This narrative dimension reinforces that crafted items are valuable not only through their production process but also through the heritage they preserve. Consumer behavior confirms this value proposition — people are willing to pay up to 17% more for handcrafted items, perceiving them as “literally imbued with love” [7]. This emotional connection transforms luxury beyond materialism into an appreciation of art and culture [3]. As luxury brands face declining consumer bases, true craftsmanship offers a path forward. The revival of traditional techniques blended with innovative designs creates products that are both timeless and relevant [8]. This approach resonates with consumers seeking meaningful connections with their possessions — a desire that mass-produced “fast luxury” cannot satisfy.
When Luxury Lacks Soul: The Cost of Ignoring Craft
Personal luxury brands are facing a crisis of confidence. According to RepTrack’s 2023 report, these brands fell by an average of 16 positions in their annual Top 100 ranking [9]. This represents the second consecutive year of declining reputation scores for major brands, signaling a deeper issue beyond temporary market fluctuations. Behind this troubling trend lies a fundamental disconnect: luxury without craftsmanship lacks soul. Indeed, many brands have raised prices without sufficiently adapting their creative strategies and supply chains, ultimately weakening their core value proposition [10]. The results are increasingly evident as consumers question the luxury promise — one built on uncompromising product quality and personalized experiences. The cost of ignoring craft manifests in multiple ways: Brand dilution — The shift toward commercialization erodes uniqueness and differentiation, making it harder for brands to stand out [11] Loss of heritage — Traditional artisanal skills decline as mass production takes precedence, undermining the very identity that made luxury brands desirable [11] Consumer alienation — Today’s consumers seek authenticity, viewing design as a silent language that communicates brand values [12]
Notably, this phenomenon reflects a broader industry shift toward short-termism. Brands focusing exclusively on quarterly metrics and immediate ROI undermine their long-term equity [13]. The harsh reality is that in luxury, “the ordinary is unforgivable” [14]. Luxury clients no longer accept heritage or craftsmanship as sufficient justification for premium pricing. Subsequently, they expect brands to deliver consistently awe-inspiring experiences that create emotional bonds [14]. With less than two underwhelming experiences leading to client breakups, the margin for error is remarkably slim. The industry stands at a critical juncture. Executives must lead with vision, creativity, and renewed commitment to excellence [10]. Otherwise, brands risk irrelevance and sacrifice market share for years to come. The truth is straightforward: luxury brands don’t fail because of poor products — they fail because they stop inspiring.
Conclusion
The commodification of luxury stands as perhaps the greatest paradox in modern fashion. Brands once defined by meticulous craftsmanship now chase quarterly profits through mass-market strategies, effectively transforming themselves into expensive versions of fast fashion. This transformation has undoubtedly contributed to the industry’s current crisis, with 50 million fewer luxury consumers in 2024 alone. Nevertheless, authentic craftsmanship retains its inherent value. The contrast becomes starkly apparent when examining the Indian textile sector, where thousands of skilled karigars create masterpieces that luxury houses silently incorporate into their collections. These artisans represent the forgotten backbone of luxury — their handwork transforms ordinary materials into extraordinary pieces that machine production simply cannot replicate. Consumers recognize this difference. Research confirms people willingly pay premium prices for handcrafted goods because they perceive these items as embodying human connection and cultural heritage. Therefore, brands abandoning craftsmanship sacrifice not just quality but also the emotional resonance that builds lasting customer relationships. The reputation decline among luxury brands signals a critical warning. Raising prices while simultaneously diluting craftsmanship creates an unsustainable business model. After all, luxury without soul becomes merely expensive — not exclusive, not desirable, not worthy of devotion. Looking forward, the luxury industry faces a fundamental choice: continue down the path of commercialization or return to its roots in exceptional craftsmanship. Brands that recommit to artisanal excellence, acknowledge the hands behind their products, and deliver consistently remarkable experiences will likely survive this challenging period. Those treating luxury as merely a pricing strategy rather than a philosophy of creation may find themselves increasingly irrelevant. True luxury has never been about logos or price tags. Instead, it represents the perfect marriage between vision and execution, between design and craft. Although fast fashion strategies might boost short-term profits, the enduring legacy of luxury brands depends on their ability to create objects that transcend time — pieces made not just to be purchased but to be treasured.
At Maryadha, we believe luxury should never come at the cost of authenticity. We’re building a future where Indian craftsmanship is not just part of the luxury supply chain — but proudly at the forefront of it.
If you’re a brand, creative, or thought leader who values story-rich sourcing, ethical production, and unmatched artistry, we invite you to collaborate.
Let’s return soul to luxury — together.
🔗 Explore more at www.maryadha.com
📩 Connect with us: hello@maryadha.com
References
[4] — https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/4791/beauty-behind-the-beast-indian-leather-industry
[11] — https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/profit-vs-passion-impact-commercialization-luxury-brands-abdul-m-
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